Photo by Travis Rainey, Food Styling by Micah Marie Morton for Epicurious.
Growing up in Vallarta, the narrative of my hometown has largely been told by foreigners. Others have seen it through the gaze of Elizabeth Taylor (who famously lived here), or have dismissed it as being “too touristy” or “not the real Mexico,” but that’s not what I’ve known.
Puerto Vallarta is a town built on the coast by people from the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains on one side and the Banderas Bay in the Pacific Ocean on the other. The local style of cooking is a product of the stunning landscape, and the cuisine is historically anchored by tropical ingredients, mariscos culture, and sazón that evoke the bold flavors of Jalisco and the neighboring state of Nayarit.
On one of my many flights back home, I asked the person sitting next to me if they’d been before, and they answered: “It’s my 32nd time visiting Vallarta.” Others have told me they’ve been going their entire life.
“Vallarta is where I want to die,” they said while looking straight into my eyes.
Home is someone’s tourist destination. Home for me is where my family has been for one hundred years. Home is walking on the beach and snacking on a brocheta de pescado: grilled pieces of fish brushed with a savory adobo, stacked tightly against each other, and threaded on a skewer topped with a lime wedge.
In my version of this beach snack, I go for a meaty fish such as swordfish or tuna and marinate it in a citrusy adobo packed with naturally occurring glutamates, aka, umami. The fish is tightly stacked against each other resulting in perfect grilled juicy fish. I reserve some of the adobo and season it to make it into a sauce to drizzle all over the brochetas.
When you’re ready to book your first or 25th trip to Vallarta, my updated 2024 Eater list for The 25 Essential Restaurants in Puerto Vallarta is live now! Fresca subscribers are always the first to know. Beyond a restaurant list, I hope it offers an overview of my Vallarta, filled with the last vestiges of Filipino influence on the Mexican coast, the best pescado zarandeado on the planet, and sidewalk custardy churros behind a grocery store.
Classy playa tunes featuring Enrique Guzmán and Ely Guerra to cook along with on this week’s mixtape.
Puerto Vallarta’s Brochetas de Pescado
Serves 4
Ingredients
1½ lb. tuna or swordfish steaks (about 1½" thick)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 chipotle chiles in adobo, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons ground achiote (annatto seeds)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
¼ avocado oil, divided, plus more for grilling
Flaky salt (for serving)
Lime wedges (for serving)
Special Equipment
4–6 metal or bamboo skewers (if using bamboo skewers, soak 30 minutes)
Step 1
Pat dry the tuna or swordfish and cut it into 1½" cubes. Season on all sides with 1 ½ teaspoon salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Step 2
Make the adobo by mixing garlic, chipotle chiles, tomato paste, achiote, and cumin in a large stainless steel or non-reactive bowl. Whisk in 3 tablespoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons avocado oil, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ cup water until a smooth paste forms. Transfer 2 tablespoons of the prepared adobo into a small bowl and whisk in 1 tablespoon of oil and remaining lime juice; set aside.
Step 3
Transfer the fish to the large bowl with the remaining adobo and toss to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 hour.
Step 4
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat or heat a grill pan over medium-high; oil grate with remaining oil. Thread fish cubes onto skewers, 4 to 5 cubes per skewer.
Step 5
Grill fish, turning often, until lightly charred, opaque, and firm to the touch, about 2 minutes per side, 8 to 10 minutes total.
Step 6
Transfer skewers to a platter. Season with flaky salt and drizzle with reserved adobo. Top each skewer with a lime wedge.