Tanning lotion
Glugs of coconut oil like it’s tanning lotion.
No sunscreen until I turned 30.
Vallarteando like IDGAF.
The sheen of these shallow-fried tacos dorados like my skin.
Shiny, crisp-tender from the unapologetic shallow fry.
Eating tacos dorados is an extension of living without regrets.
I will always choose tacos dorados doblados (folded) over tacos dorados or flautas (rolled). Think about it, when tacos dorados are folded, the fold itself yields a bonus custardy texture from the increased frying surface level. It creates steam in the little pocket where the filling is stuffed, magically turning it custardy against the jaggedly crispy edges.
You can go mashed potato, but I went full-on requesón to get my thrills. Requesón is a creamier, more acidic version of ricotta. Requesón is also your savior, along with mashed potato, if you’re veg and you’re in the hunt for tacos dorados. In Jalisco, requesón is mixed with diced tomato and epazote. I used whole-milk ricotta from Bellwether Farms that has an incredible richness similar to that of requesón and then mixed in some golden crispy leeks for sweet alliums notes.
These tacos are shallow-fried. They are delicate and crisp-tender, so don’t expect a hard crunch unless you want to double the oil and cooking time for a solid deep fry. Hey, I fully support your frying wildness! But whatever you do, spoon over some of my salsa verde fortified with pistachios and lime juice, and truly regret nothing.
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XOXO
I leave you with dark wave atmospheric neo-cumbia sounds from DJ El Keamo’s debut EP.
Crispy Ricotta-Leek Tacos with Pistachio Salsa Verde
Makes 8 Tacos
Pistachio Salsa Verde Ingredients
1 pound fresh tomatillos, husks removed
1 small serrano chile, finely chopped
1 unpeeled garlic clove
Kosher salt
⅓ cup chopped salted roasted pistachios
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Crispy Ricotta-Leek Tacos Ingredients
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 medium leeks (about 6 ounces), white parts only, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 (15-ounce) container requesón or whole-milk ricotta cheese
8 (6- to 8-inch) nixtamal corn tortillas, such as Caramelo
⅓ cup avocado oil, or other high-smoke oil such as grapeseed or peanut oil
Step 1
Preheat broiler to high with oven rack in the upper third of oven. Place tomatillos, serrano and garlic on a medium baking sheet. Broil on the upper rack, turning often, until evenly charred and tomatillos begin to burst, 10 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. When garlic is cool enough to handle, remove and discard peel. Place tomatillos, garlic, and 1½ teaspoons salt in a molcajete or mortar and pestle; mash until pulpy in texture. If using a blender or food processor, pulse until roughly chopped, about 5 times to keep some of the texture. Transfer tomatillo mixture to a medium bowl, and stir in pistachios and lime juice.
Step 2
Heat olive oil in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium. Add leeks and season with ½ teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of ground pepper. Cook, stirring often, until leeks are golden brown and start to get crispy, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer leeks into a medium bowl. Mix leeks with requesón or ricotta, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon black pepper; stir until combined.
Step 3
Working with a few tortillas at a time, warm them up in the same skillet over medium heat until pliable, 15 seconds per side. Wrap warmed tortillas in a clean kitchen towel to keep warm. Spoon about ¼ cup cheese filling down the center of each tortilla; fold in half.
Step 4
Heat avocado oil (or the frying oil of your choice) on the same skillet over medium-high until the oil is shimmering but not smoking, about 350 degrees. Working in batches, add 2 to 3 tacos at a time, and fry until golden and lightly crisp, 2 minutes per side. (You’re not deep frying until super crispy; you’re shallow-frying for a little texture.) Drain tacos on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Repeat with remaining batches. Spoon salsa over the tacos and serve immediately.
Yum!