Hollowed Out and Delicious: Bolillo con Crema
Hollowed Out and Delicious: Bolillo con Crema
This minimalist torta is perhaps Mexico’s most elusive emparedado
The French have Jambon Beurre, and in Aguascalientes, they have bolillo con crema.
Who gets to decide that one is more special than the other?
Jambon beurre (ham butter) is definitely French. Though its minimalist characteristics—baguette, ham, and butter—are strikingly reminiscent of this emparedado and do I dare to say, brighter and bolder but just as silky and rich?
Bolillo con crema, also known as torta de albañil, literally translates to “bread with cream” or “construction worker’s torta.” It is the regional torta of the central Mexico state of Aguascalientes. Bolillos con crema are sold all day at tiendas de abarrotes (corner stores) like this one. They’re affordable and they’re delicious. The bolillo is uniquely cut at the top and hollowed out to make room for the filling, crema is poured down into the bread, seasoned with salt, stuffed with thin slices of ham, and topped with jalapeños en escabeche.
Jambon de Paris or any thinly sliced ham that is not smoked is in line with the simplicity of this torta. You can make individual bolillos, or make a large-format baguette generously smothered with crema, layered with ham and jalapeños, and cut into smaller emparedados for your summer centerpiece.
The only technique that this recipe will require is to hollow out the bread: a time-honored tradition in the emparedado culture of Mexico where the entirety of the crumb is removed from bolillos to make room for more fillings. My mom used to remove the migajón (crumb) to the very edge of the crust, so much that it looked like a floating shell of a bolillo. This is a sad thing to do if you are lucky to source high-quality baguettes or bolillos, so feel free to remove as little as you want as long as it you achieve that extruded look and it’s hollowed out enough to pack as many fillings as your sandwich-loving heart desires.
Don’t be afraid to be generous with the crema, it is called bolillo con crema for a reason! Make it drip.
Turn this emparedado into your new picnic essential and turn up the volume for these summery sounds on this week’s bolillo con crema mixtape.
Don’t miss next week’s last emparedado recipe of this series! If you love today’s recipe consider supporting Fresca for only $5 a month. You’ll gain access to the Fresca recipe archives with full access to my seasonal recipe drops every quarter. Fresca is a one-person team. Your direct support makes my independent work possible. Mil gracias.