Birria Goes to the Beach
Plus, win free tickets for Valle's natural wine fest
Recipe by Paola Briseño-González, Photo by Jen Causey for Food & Wine
I could start a war by saying that birria in Jalisco is the best kind of birria.
Instead, I’ll say that birria in Jalisco is the only birria that brings me euphoria like no other.
Birria tatemada is my home state’s famed dish. The goat is slathered with a thick adobo and slow-roasted in a clay oven until crusty and tender. It looks more like jerk chicken or vindaloo than the brothy style of birria you might be used to.
Birria tatemada is reserved for special occasions in a similar way mole negro is. The way to bring this feast-worthy birria to casual everyday cooking is to:
Make the adobo: It’s as easy as toasting a few dried chiles on your comal or cast iron, throwing it all in a blender with spices, garlic, and a healthy dose of apple cider vinegar. Store it in a mason jar in the fridge to use in that moment of sheer hunger and desperate birria cravings. The adobo is on double duty: it is used in the cooking and then added to fortify a tomato salsa for serving.
Make it with fish: I say this as the daughter of a Tapatío who says: “Si no es de chivo, no es birria,” “If it’s not goat, it’s not birria.” But hey, slow roasting a meaty fish like swordfish slathered in adobo still delivers the deep flavors of birria without the super long cooking of meat. Look for the thickest slabs of swordfish at the seafood counter, and use a thermometer to avoid overcooked heartbreak. Other big fish like mahi-mahi, tuna, or halibut might make fine variations, if you try those please report back!
Need convincing? This angel from the internet gave my recipe a five-star rating when I first published a similar version in Food & Wine back in 2019:
Blushing!
Speaking of one of the better things in recent memory, how about we meet up?
Me, you (a Fresca subscriber), +1 in Valle de Guadalupe? I have a giveaway for two GA passes to Sed Latente, a wine-tasting event with over 20 of the best Baja and Southern California’s natural winemakers next Saturday, April 27 from 1 pm-9 pm. Chef Alejandro Burgos of Bloodlust, Latoso Juan, and Quesos Don Carlos will be there to fire the best food in Valle. Mexicali’s country punk singer, Juan Cirerol, playing live with a full lineup of artists, and the best natural wine producers. It’s all happening in Valle de Guadalupe’s first natural wine bar, Bloodlust (yep, this is really what this magical bar looks like!).
Giveaway Deets!
You live in Southern California, Tijuana, or Ensenada/Valle de Guadalupe area.
You have a current passport (for crossing the imposed border, if you live in the U.S.…).
You can provide your own transportation to get to Bloodlust in Valle de Guadalupe.
You’re like me: obsessed with natural wines from SoCal and Baja.
Here’s how to enter:
You must be a free or paid subscriber to Fresca.
Share my latest post published on Friday, April 19th from my Instagram feed @paolasuavicrema to your stories AND tag me in the story.
Comment on my post and tag your +1
Fresca PAID subscribers get two entries to this giveaway!
The winner will be randomly selected and announced on Saturday 20th on my Instagram stories. DM to follow for check-in details!
Nos vemos en el Valle
Paola
xoxo
Slow-Roasted Swordfish Birria Tatemada
Serves 4
Adobo Ingredients
2 dried ancho chiles, stems removed (about 1 ounce)
3 dried guajillo chiles, stems removed (about 3/4 ounce)
4 dried cascabel chiles, stems removed (1/4 ounce)
1/2 cup chopped white onion
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
kosher salt
10 black peppercorns
4 large garlic cloves
4 whole cloves
Swordfish Ingredients
2 pounds (1-inch-thick) skinless swordfish fillets
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons avocado oil, or other neutral oil
Salsa Ingredients
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes, drained
Kosher salt
Serving Ingredients
1/2 cup finely chopped red onion
2 radishes, thinly sliced
2 limes
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Kosher salt
1 large avocado, sliced
1 dozen nixtamal corn tortillas, warmed, such as Caramelo
Step 1
Using a paring knife, cut a slit down the side of each chile. Open each chile, and remove and discard seeds. Heat a large comal or cast-iron skillet over medium. Add chiles, and cook until fragrant and chiles begin to darken, about 30 seconds per side. Remove chiles and set aside.
Step 2
Combine toasted chiles, onion, vinegar, cumin seeds, 1 tablespoon salt, peppercorns, garlic, cloves, 1/4 cup water in a blender, and puree until a smooth paste forms. If the paste is too thick, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time to reach a thick sauce consistency. Transfer adobo to a measuring cup; and reserve blender.
Step 3
Preheat oven to 300°F. Season fish with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Spread 3/4 cup adobo over fish to completely coat. Line a medium baking dish with parchment paper. Add fish, and drizzle with oil. Roast in preheated oven on the middle rack until flesh is opaque throughout and flakes easily with a fork and a thermometer inserted in the center of the fillet register 135°F, 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and rest covered for 10 minutes.
Step 4
Meanwhile, add tomatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, and the remaining adobo, about 1/4 cup. Process until smooth.
Step 5
Toss together onion, radishes, the juice of two limes, and oregano in a small bowl until combined. Season with salt to taste and serve alongside fish, avocado, salsa, and warm tortillas.
Yum! And….fun!!!!!!