When my mom makes picadillo, it’s always a guessing game as to what she sneaked into it. It’s always chockful of tiny diced carrots, celery, and zucchini. But the boldest thing she still does is to cut the beef with half “beef-flavored” rehydrated ground soy. I’d ask her what was in it because it tasted '“weird” and she’d always answer: “cuando comes en la calle, ¿les preguntas qué le ponen a la comida o te la comes con gusto? (Do you also ask what is in the food when you eat out?)
My mom is savage.
She grew up in Vallarta where it was more affordable to eat seafood and lighter to eat vegetables to stay cool in the tropical heat of the coast. Eating meat was a treat, and she always treated it as a supporting act for vegetables. I don’t know if it was because my mom limited us from eating meat, but I’m voracious when I eat it and there’s no other protein that activates that more than lamb.
I love the grassy taste of lamb. I first started making picadillo with ground lamb when we lived in Highland Park near Super King in Glassell Park where I’d buy a one-pound brick of New Zealand lamb for $7.99.
But some things don’t leave you. I’m not cutting this beautiful protein with soy, but here I am, adding lots of veg. When I showed Javier the picadillo I made, he even asked me: “Where is the meat?” I knew my mom would be proud.
Picadillo is the dish you need for adding those tiny potatoes that have been sitting in your crisper. A handful of fresh (or frozen) peas revived by the brininess of my favorite olives in the world. They’ll turn the average olive-hater human who grew up picking out mushy and salty black olives on pizza into the person who will buy two-pound jars of buttery and nutty Castelvetranos. They play so nice with chiles güeros’ subtle heat in a definite upgrade from bell peppers. Top it all with marinated artichokes, they add such a nice vegetal punch to anything.
This dish pulls you into spring big time, like Li Saumet’s voice via Bomba Estereo. Le Tigre, and Tom Tom Club with ‘Wordy Rapinghood’ for a strong feminine start to springtime.